January is a busy birthday month for the extended Hammon clan: Judy, Rob, Carol Boyles and King. Judy’s birthday is on the 15th, which she shares with notables MLK junior and Charo (“kooshee-kooshee”). Rob’s is on the 17th which is also Benjamin Franklin ’s birthday. The French loved Franklin . He was the man who had tamed lightning, dressed like a backwoodsman but was a match for any wit in the world. He was a favorite of the ladies, and a notorious flirt.
Rob and I decided to celebrate Judy and Rob's birthdays over breakfast at Rick &Ann’s Restaurant in Berkeley .
Once again we got up too early for our sleepy dogs, forcing them to wolf (no pun intended) their breakfast so we could get on the road to meet Los J&J by 8! Rob’s Corvette was in the shop so we took our cute Alfa Spider on our birthday outing. By 6:30 we were varooming along SR99 at 104.607 km/hour. Little did we know how much the Alfa would add to our birthday adventure.
Once again we got up too early for our sleepy dogs, forcing them to wolf (no pun intended) their breakfast so we could get on the road to meet Los J&J by 8! Rob’s Corvette was in the shop so we took our cute Alfa Spider on our birthday outing. By 6:30 we were varooming along SR99 at 104.607 km/hour. Little did we know how much the Alfa would add to our birthday adventure.
Birthday Breakfast
The wait for Rick & Ann’s to open was short, we only had two intrepid breakfast Berkeleyites standing stiff backed in front of us ready their newspapers. I guess people cut in line in Berkeley because they were definitely guarding their turf.
Soon we were installed in a sunny spot by the window reading the menu; I was excited to see cornmeal pancakes. That moment was the most exciting thing about our food. Here we are before we found out the food not a delicious as we had hoped.
Here are the Birthday Kids. Très adorables, n’est ce pas? Still looking forward to a yummy breakfast.
Foxes? In Berkeley ?
Rick & Ann's is nestled in a row of eateries on the street just below the picturesque Claremont Hotel. (See the huge, white building in the background?) The area was originally part of 2 Spanish land grants.
Bill Thornburg, a Kansas farmer who struck it rich in the Gold Rush, purchased 13,000 acres and built a fairytale castle and several stables for his wife who dreamed of living in an English castle. He hired Cockney grooms to care for his pedigreed hunters and jumper, and raised English foxes for hunting parties. (NB: why he thought the Cockney would know anything about horses I don't know. Cockneys are working class Londoners, mostly from the East End.) The downside to Mrs. Thornburg's dream was that her daughter married a British Lord. Soon after their daughter married and moved to England, Mrs. Thornburg dies and Bill sold the property. Well that didn't turn out to be a happy ending.
In 1901 the home burned down after which the property changed hands several times and long story short the Claremont opened as a grand transient and resident hotel in 1915. In 1937 one of the long time residents bought the hotel and property for $250,000 and completely redid it.
Here is a bit of happy trivia that makes up for people dying and houses burning down …State law prohibited the sale of alcohol within a one-mile radius of the University of California and for some reason because the hotel is just on the line between Berkeley and Oakland it was assumed to be within the on-mile radius rule so the Claremont didn’t have a bar. Well in 1936 an enterprising Berkeley coed, probably a civil engineering student, and her friends measured the shortest distance between the UCB campus and the front steps of the hotel. The Claremont was a few feet over the one-mile radius! The Paragon Bar & Café opened and the coed student responsible was awarded free drinks at the Claremont for the rest of her life!
Interesting Flora
Walking between the restaurant and the cars we passed these trees. Scary.
Jud bravely standing close to a thorny tree.
Parasitic plants growing in a tree.
A tree spilling over the sidewalk! Oh, and a cigarette butt. Yuck!
On to San Francisco and the Palace of the Legion of Honor
It was a beautiful day in Berkeley so if the weather was the same across the bay, the view from the Palace of the Legion of Honor would be spectacular. We said “ Adiós, Los J y J!” and zoomed off to cross the Bay Bridge to San Francisco .
People used to cross the choppy waters of the bay in ferryboats, which was a lot slower. There was discussion of a toll bridge between San Francisco and Oakland as early as the gold rush, but it always seemed like an engineering and financial impossibility. In 1921 a transbay underwater tube was recommended! In 1928 over 46 million people were ferried across the bay. It wasn’t until the mass production of automobiles that it was realized that cars were the future of transportation and a bridge was a necessity.
Financed by an independent agency of the US Government during President Herbert Hoover’s administration, ground was broken in 1933. Construction took three years, and was completed six months ahead of schedule. The total length of the bridge, including approaches, is 8.4 miles. The tunnel through Yerba Buena Island is the largest bore tunnel in the world: 76-feet wide x 56-feet high.
The San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge opened for traffic on November 12, 1936 only 6 months before the Golden Gate Bridge . It originally carried automobile traffic on its upper deck, and trucks and trains on the lower, but the lower deck was converted to road traffic as well some time in the late 1950’s.
A Real Head-Turner
As we drove across the see the San Francisco skyline but we were having fun driving the Alfa with the big boys. I love going through the tunnel on Yerba Buena Island. The weather was beautiful; we were just too low and couldn’t see very much over the side! We generally know where we are in San Francisco but I like to get the map out and give occasional unsolicited advice. The 101 dumped us on Octavia; we took a left on Fell Street on the north side of the Panhandle and hummed along admiring the Victoria houses that line the street. Just 3 short miles from the Legion! What a wonderful day!
Ha! Two of the four cylinders stopped popping, the car sputtered, Rob turned onto Central and we coasted into an open parking spot on the corner of Central and Hayes; the only vacant parking spot in a 4-mile radius.
We spent the next 3 minutes amazed with our parking luck! Then our predicament registered. No matter which way you look at it our beautiful little Alfa was not going to run. The Alfa is a classic car so I can’t say it starts first time, every time, but once it gets going you hum along at a good clip and you feel like the world is your oyster. We were no longer running at a good clip; the world was no longer our oyster.
Rob checking out something.
Rob checking out something else.
Okay, okay! Valerie very bored and took a lot of pictures.
We walked up Hayes, left on Masonic and found a bus stop. After debating on which way we were going we figure out we were waiting on the wrong street. Up Masonic we went, right on McAllister and sat for a few minutes. The bus arrived; we paid our fare (exact change) and chatted up the driver, secure in our abilities to navigate the City. We were going the wrong direction.
He stopped the bus, gave us explicit directions, let us off, and waited to make sure we went to the correct corner as he gesticulated towards the bus stop across the street. With an unsure glance at us as we stood at the correct corner, the bus continued on his route. As we waited for yet another bus, we discussed how friendliness of bus drivers. As Hannibal said “I love it when a plan comes together.” That is Hannibal from The A-Team. Come to think of it he always had a Plan B.
The next bus came; I paid my fare (we were fast running out of exact change) while the driver tried to explain that I obviously had already paid because I was holding a transfer in my other hand! Sheepishly I sat down in the back of the bus disregarding my advice to Emily, “Never sit in the back of the bus. Stay in the front even if you have to stand!”
Our bus drove Route 5 back up McAllister, took a quick left, then a quick right and drove all the way down Fulton Street to the ocean; then a right on Point Lobos Avenue where we got off on the corner of Cabrillo. At the ocean we got off the bus walked a half block to wait for bus 18 which would take us to the Palace of the Legion of Honor!
That is Rob standing on La Play near the corner of Cabrillo; see the Dutch Windmill in the background?
I can’t help it, it is a sickness…
Once upon a time before our lovely Golden Gate Park , at the turn of the 20th century, the coast of San Francisco was barren except for sand dunes and the few plants that could survive the wind and the shifting sand. When plans to build the park started to go forward, there was one seemingly insurmountable problem. Isn’t there always? What was it? Water! How would the developers of the park provide the enormous amount of water needed to transform the dunes into the beautiful and lush, cold paradise it is today?
Initially, the Spring Valley Water Company supplied water but it was very expensive and limited, so the city had to find an alternative. In the 1870’s wells had been drilled indicating that there was fresh water very near the ocean, so a proposal was made to build a windmill right on the dunes and to use the wind to pump water into the park. Skepticism, doubt, concern for the amount of power needed….well things moved forward anyway and construction began in 1902. A number of commissioners including Adolph B. Spreckels, the sugar baron, were appointed to oversee construction for a cost not to exceed $14,000. The Fulton Engineering Company (Fulton!) won the bid for the ironwork and the Dutch Windmill, as it is known, was completed within the year for a cost of $16,000, $2K over budget. Okay, not much changes. It worked like a charm and Spreckels Lake (Hello!) was built as an additional reservoir.
A brick cottage (the Dutch Cottage) was built next to the windmill so the mill could be constantly monitored and adjusted according to the weather. Golden Gate Park was the largest botanical garden in the world at that time and without the windmill its over 2 million trees would not have survived. It worked so well that a second windmill was planned.
Well, in 1913, electricity was all the rage, and motorized pumps were able to move many times the amount of water that the windmill did. So electric pumps were installed in the park; the windmill was now obsolete and left to decay. Powerful winter storms, fire, vandalism, the internal mechanisms being gutter for the war effort in World War II and years of neglect took their toll. In 1950 the park commission ordered that the most dangerous parts be removed.
Happy Part:
In 1966 Mrs. Eleanor Crabtree was appointed chairwoman of the Windmill Restoration Project. For Mrs. Crabtree it was a true labor of love and for the next 20 years she poured all her energy into restoration. In 1981 restoration was complete and there was a huge celebration. Mrs. Crabtree died five years later.
But she died happy, so this is a happy story.
We arrive at the Palace of the Legion of Honor
We made it! That is the California Palace of the Legion of Honor behind us. Built on what was then a remote site known as Land's End, the California Palace was dedicated to the memory of the 3,600 California men who had lost their lives on the battlefields of France during World War I.
Here is the story...In 1895 the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park opened, funded by M.H. de Young. Adolph Spreckels and de Young were rivals, in fact at one time Spreckels even shot de Young because of an editorial that de Young wrote in the Chronicle. ( yes, I do know why Speckels shot de Young, but you have been skimming through the narrative so you will have to wait for another narrative) Adolph’s wife, Mrs. Alma de Bretteville Spreckels , was quite a Francophile, she believed her family came from French royalty, and not wanting to be outdone by her husband’s rival, she gifted the people of San Francisco with the California Palace of the Legion of Honor, which is a replica of the Palais de la Légion d'Honneur in Paris.
“There Is Nothing That Brightens You Up Like A Few Diamonds!”
Rob and I went to the Legion specifically to view the exhibit Cartier and America, which is at the museum until April 18th. The exhibit is a dazzling display of excess right out of the times of Bill Thornburg and Alma Spreckles. The first 10 tiaras were amazing, after that I was bored. The mystery clocks, a type of clock with a transparent dial and so named because their works are hidden, were interesting but after the first 3 or 4 of those, I was bored. Rob was fascinated. I liked the brooches made to resemble animals. Often the women would wear a tiara, earrings, a broach, bracelets, a necklace, and a stomacher brooch meant to adorn the bodice; all of diamonds. I think that is really what put me over the edge on this exhibit because really I would love to have any of the pieces, but I wouldn’t wear them all at once. I would wear them with my jeans and cowboy boots though, because, well, why not.
American millionaires of the Gilded Age had the money and Cartier had diamonds and that is still true today. Cartier’s pieces were exquisitely crafted and his designs were creative and often ingenious which made Cartier the “King of Jewelers”, a perfect fit for the American rich who dreamed they were royalty. The Cartier Company has a long and distinguished history of serving royalty, as well as stars and celebrities so you would probably recognize many of the names of those who loaned pieces from their private jewelry boxes. I don’t think Rob will be telling me “I am bringing you box from Cartier” for my birthday. Though if I had enough boxes from Cartier I could always do what one matron did, she put all her jewelry in her bank vault and the money she saved from insurance she used for opening a soup kitchen.
Below is a photo of Rob in front of the bus that would take us back to our Alfa.Swine of the Times
We ran to catch our new mode of transportation, waved to the bus driver smoking by the pines, hoped on the bus and grabbed the seats in the front. After a moment a voice from behind us said, “Those seats are for Senior Citizens”!
We turned to see Gayle and Steve Roscelli grinning at us. What a kick! The Roscelli’s were in the city for the weekend also riding around on the Muni. While we were at the Cartier exhibit they were visiting Iret-net-Hor-irw (a.k.a. "the mummy"). The mummy was return to the Legion in August 2009 after being on loan to the Haggin Museum in Stockton for 65 years; I guess Steve and Gayle missed him. From the museum the Roscelli’s were on their way to The Tipsy Pig, a “gastrotavern”, and asked if we wanted to tag along. Gayle was prepared with bus directions, so we signed on.
Here is Gayle with her map and directions, Steve and Rob looking pleased that they are with the person with the map who knows how to find a good bar.
After 3 buses, 2 transfers and a scenic ride by the Golden Gate Bridge we arrived at Chestnut Street and The Tipsy Pig. Gayle told us The Tipsy Pig is named after the fall tradition of pigs getting drunk from eating fermented apples, not after their clientele. An upscale place!
















